CHUMASH CLOTHING ACCORDING TO
FERNANDO
[from Travis Hudson (ed.), Breath
of the Sun(1980), p.5]
“Every
year in Mission times the priests
gave cloth to the Indian women to make dresses. The yearly ration was some
cloth for a silk shawl, eight feet long and four feet wide of various colors
and fringed, a piece of cloth for sheets, and a piece of cloth, maybe two,
three, or four yards long, also of various colors. The nuns [unmarried women]
were given better cloth, for they belonged to the priests. Each man received
three yards of yellow muslin for a G-string, and six yards for a sheet for
wrapping about himself. A man also received a serape, with a hole to put his
head through. Children were given, say, two yards of yellow muslin for
G-strings, according to the needs of the child. The priests gave the vaqueros a
saddle, a vest, pants, jacket, and several yards of yellow muslin for sheets
and for handkerchiefs. [The clothing consisted of coarse wool or sack-cloth.
The men wore a short tunic, called a coton’, G-string (about 1.5 yards long by 0.5 yards wide) and a
blanket. The women also received a blanket, a white cotton blouse, and a woolen
skirt, the latter in any of several colors. Alcaldes received the same type of
clothing that the Spanish or Mexican people wore. This included leggings, hat,
boots, and a manga blanket.] The vaqueros were the only ones who wore short
pants; the Indian men …wore only a G-string and a blanket. It was only in 1847
that Indian men in Ventura began to wear pants, and then they wore the G-string
underneath.”
An alcade was an Indian offical of the mission,
elected by the neophytes each year. His duties consisted of acting as justice
of the peace as well as bring before the priest anyone accused of a crime. He
also carried out punishment and was exempt from corporal punishment.
In most
cases Indians possessed only one set of clothing. Men, for example, washed
themselves with a sweat, washed their G-string, then returned to the temescal (sweathouse)
while their G-string dried.
The pattern
of clothing reflects the strict class structure in colonial Spain and Mexico. Indian men wore
G-strings, while the Spanish and later Mexicans wore pants. Vaqueros, while
Indians, were of higher status, having horses, as were the Alcaldes. Indians went
barefoot, while mestizos wore sandals and Spaniards and Mexicans wore shoes or
boots (vaqueros were an exception). If Indians were caught making sandals for
themselves, they were punished.
Mike
Kuhn
12-23-04